Highbourne Cay and Warderick Wells Cay

Sunday 1/17

It is 10.45 and the wine and dinner we had yesterday on the beach (organized by the marina, paid for by ourselves) clearly has done Jacques's back good, because we are now in an intense cleaning mode. The master (that is how he has called himself in the official paperwork) has taken the water hose in his hands and then you better hide inside. Even when captains never would clean anything, on board they get dangerous and they really like it!!!

We went for a walk on the island and had the neighbors over for some wine and crackers. Their son has a Swiss girlfriend, you would not believe it, but works for Swisscom in Bern, where Mark also works. We had a nice evening. It is now Tuesday 1/19 and we are on a mooring ball off Warderick Wells Cay, the headquarters of the Exumas Land and Sea park. Because there is a ranger station here, we could again buy some internet time, great!!

The trip to this very wonderful place was not without stops. We left the harbor around nine o’clock, had soon the sails up, motor off and enjoying a perhaps not so fast but very peaceful sail ride. Then came from the harbor a motorboat, going really fast, I was already complaining that that would be a big wave maker, but he came straight to us and started talking something in his big horn. He wanted us to put the motors in neutral, the only problem: the motors were not running. To show some cooperation we put down the foresail and tried to get the boat into the wind, to stop. Then we asked if they wanted us also to take down the main, but after some discussion, everything was fine. 

They came with three men on our just cleaned boat, (big black boots and several guns). They first wanted to see our paper work of course, filled out new papers and did a tour of the boat. I think they soon felt already a little stupid, it was very clear we were just two elderly people enjoying their life. They were very friendly, I must say, and in the end we had to sign a paper if they had done a good job and asked us if we had seen suspicious boats, I told them I have no clue how they would look like!!

Because we had the foresail down, we wanted to try the spinnaker again, after all the preparations, he went up and was at least till halfway completely twisted, down, a few twists back, up again, still twisted, down again, after more of this the captain shouted “motor on!” So the rest of the way we motored. And here we are, Jacques looks like he is into S&M, he cleaned the propellers today and the barnacles were razor sharp. Tonight we saw a shark next to the boat, about five feet, GREAT!!!!!!!!!!

Ria

Exumas

Allen’s Cay - Jan 13, 2010
We had light winds from Chub Cay to Rose Island, E of Nassau. At one time we put up the chute but this was no success. Atlantis dominated the skyline of Nassau, we have a picture included. 

Because we had no need for shopping we anchored south of Rose Island in a little cave, was very nice and left for Allen’s Cay the next morning on Jan 13. We had a great sailing day (the best till now) on a beam reach; we just kept on going 5 to 8 knots, fantastic. After the anchor was set, just in between two little islands, very cute spot Jacques had unfortunately a strained back muscle and could hardly move. 

Ria saw the first iguanas for which Allen’s Cay is known. Jacques went for a rest to see if that would help his back. The next day we hopped, with me you can not really talk about hopping) in the dinghy and went to the beach where we were between about 30 iguanas that came out of the bushes to get some food. We only had some apple peels and an egg sandwich. But it was grandiose, great!

Jacques & Ria

Bahamas Bound

4.38 AM
We have left key Biscayne behind us and also most of the red and green lights to mark the entrance. The engines have been started, I rolled out of my bed at 3.30 and the coffee was ready, I have a prima captain on board. I have to go outside. The anchor will be raised. Helmi (the automatic pilot) is doing his job and Pim (the chart plotter) is making its money’s worth. It is half clouded with a half moon, so we have some light from above. The water temperature is 71 degrees, that is important, because the gulf-stream is much warmer, so we think that the water temp will be the first indicator of having arrived at the gulf-stream.

5.25 AM
We have been singing “on the boat again” to the music of “on the road again” from Willy Nelson and have done some high fives, we are happy we are on the way. Yesterday we left Dinner Key Marina around eleven to go fill up the gas and water, at the gas dock they did not sell water, what gave the captain a serious fit, so we had to go back to the marina to fill up the water tanks. Then we went to “No Name Harbor”, it is really the name, a very nice inlet at the south end of Key Biscayne, so that we could get out quickly in the morning. After us at least seven more boats arrived, of which at least four left the harbor this night ahead of us. And on one of the boats were Doris and Dennis, with whom we had Thanksgivings dinner in Boot Key Harbor, was really nice and special to see them, they wait for the next weather window (that is what all insider crossers call the time when there is no north wind and it is good to cross the gulf stream) and we hope to see them again somewhere in the Bahamas.

5.54 AMIt is a little choppy, leftover wave from yesterday, but the foresail is up and when daylight comes the main sail will also have to do some work. I am going to make the second pot of coffee, what will for sure not be the last one. We just saw the first big freighter (we thought it was a shrimp boat till we got closer!) I got the message from outside that the water is 78.1 degrees, so I think we are getting there. Now first the coffee.

6.15 AM
The last measuring of the depth meter was 567 feet and now we can not see how deep it is anymore because the depth sounder doesn’t show depths below a certain depth, the water temp now is 79.1.

6.27 AM
Ahead of us the sky is getting lighter and there is a wonderful red horizon, this is one of the moments that make this way of life so special, it seems the sun is coming up just for you, GREAT!!!!!

8.20 AM
The swells are getting somewhat higher and the water is a wonderful deep blue, perhaps like midnight blue, really fantastic. I have tried to lie down on the couch, because I am still not feeling very good, but I am so afraid I will miss something, so we are sitting peacefully outside in the cockpit.
Pim tells us that we have done about a third of the way and we are already turning a little bit to the North. The wind should have changed directions by now, but as is always (so it seems) the weather channel is more often wrong than right. But we went because there would be only light winds, and there they were right, so it does not matter a lot.

11.25 AM
I had to do a short nap and feel a lot better, it is warm outside and the water temp is 83.6, the wind has changed and there are practically no waves, just a little bit. Jacques has already put up the yellow flag, because we are officially in the territorial waters of the Bahamas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The yellow flag tells the authorities, that we have not checked in and they can come to us to do so (I think that is about the meaning) We probably can soon loose our thick sweaters, GREAT!!!

12.30 PM
We see since about half an hour land and because we have not seen other boats we still can feel a little bit like Robinson Crusoe. The sweaters are off and it is wonderful weather, I see a lot of small flying fishes, but nothing big so far on this trip, I for sure will not give up hope.

14.00 PMWE HAVE ARRIVED IN THE BAHAMAS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We are in the Cat Cay yacht club and are filling out about ten pages of paperwork, the harbor is practically empty, is very nice and the people till now very friendly. The colors of the water are spectacular, from dark greenish to swimming pool blue.

Saturday, Jan 9
It is 6.00 in the evening and the day today did not go as we wanted. But first the rest of the day yesterday. After filling-out the paperwork we proudly raised the Bahamian guest flag, took a long shower and noticed that there was exactly nothing to do there, you could not even go for a walk on the island because the people really want their privacy. So I made a spectacular dinner with two steaks (left from Karyn and Paul’s visit, a tomato salad with white and green onions sprinkled with a bourguignon sauce (I think I can start writing for a food magazine), it was a perfect ending for a perfect day.

We also noticed that we are in the islands now because when we complained to the dock master that the internet did not work, he looked at us with "do you expect me to do something about that" eyes? In the end he murmured perhaps the tower or the signal!! We gave up.

We knew this morning that there would be some wind but because it would come from behind, we expected a sensational sailing day, even thinking of the spinnaker. The beginning was good; 7-8 knots, the first Bahamian dolphins came to welcome us, and swam a little while with us. But the sky soon became dark and the wind meter showed 20 to 25, even 30 knots, to be sure we took the mainsail down, it started to rain at around 11.00 and it is still raining. 

At three o’clock the "master" found it was enough and we put out the anchor. We are now in the middle of the Bahamas banks at 25˚28’N/78˚36’W, really, really in the middle of nowhere, are securely anchored in 20 ft. of water. We haven’t seen a single boat since leaving but found it wise to move two nm south of the shipping lane to the NW channel buoy at the east point of the "tongue of the ocean" and are going to sleep and hope that tomorrow the rain will have stopped. We hope to get to Chub Cay tomorrow and will be trying an internet connection there.

Well, it didn’t turn out as we hoped. This morning, Sunday Jan 10, the wind is piping 30 knots plus from the NNW so we have decided to stay at anchor until tomorrow when the last forecast said that the wind would reduce. When looking at the chart plotter we see that the anchor is not dragging but we are in for a bumpy day and night. The boat is bucking like a bronco but takes the short waves well. The advantage is that we immediately see what is not stored correctly and will correct this today. The rain has stopped, the barometer is rising and we see some blue sky. Ria tries not to look outside at the waves but fortunately none of us is susceptible to seasickness.

Monday Jan 11We had two miserable nights and the day was not much better. We were seriously thinking about going back, No Name harbor felt sooooooo very comfortable to us. Last night at 1.00 I saw for the first time (even if it was for a very short time) winds under twenty knots and after that came immediately 30 again, not good. We saw nothing, not a fish or a little bird, anything would have been welcomed. This morning winds were between 20 and 25, first we wanted to wait out another day, but decided we could at least try to get a little further on the banks toward Cub Cay. This was a wise decision, although we had to take the mainsail down (too much wind and waves), with the foresail and the motors and a declining wind it became soon rather comfortable.

It is now 1 o’clock in the afternoon and we have seen the first boat and Land ahead! We hope to anchor off Chub Cay around three o’clock and will have a immediately a nice drink, we have deserved it. We will see how far it is to dinghy into the harbor, where we could get maybe, internet or make a phone call, but we are not sure. For now we think we had our portion of bad weather for the whole trip!!

Jacques & Ria

Trying to get ready to go home

We had a wonderful week with Karyn, Paul and the kids. It was fantastic, the weather, the swimming and all the animals we have seen. I will come back to their vacation when we are home and I can post all the pictures we have taken.
We are starting to get ready to go home and we have already made a list of things to do, that is of course not really island time behavior, but we slowly have to get back to reality. 

And everything is the first for us, so also the preparation of the boat for the summer season, we are making screens for some windows so that we can leave them a little bit open, are buying all kinds of anti mildew stuff and are making a list what to take home and what will stay on the boat. Today we went to shore to start the laundry (me!) and Jacques is going to bike around to do some shopping.

Ria

Paul and Karyn are on their way

Paul, Karyn and the kids are coming today, we called them at around 7 eastern time and they were about 100 miles from Florida, then it is still a long way to go, but until now everything is going okay. We went very early to the marina, because the laundry machines are always busy, I still was not the first one but only had to wait 15 min. I am writing this during the drying time and there are at least ten big bags of laundry waiting.

Jacques is doing some last minute shopping (Amaretto for Karyn) and a belt for himself, he really lost a lot of weight and all his pants don’t really fit anymore. It is not fair, because I do the same amount of walking and biking and my pants just fit fine!!! 

We will have a good time, the weather is great and we will do a lot a lot of swimming, talk to you all soon.

Ria

April 7

We are now for several days already on a mooring ball in the City Marina of Marathon. We have access to internet in the building and get pumped out every week, (that means we can flush the toilets with a lot of water, feels rich).
We also made some important purchases: a wind generator to get us some more power, it works good, makes a little bit of noise, and even I am constantly looking at the little meter that shows us how full the batteries are; and two folding bikes, because the stores are really too far to walk (the walking is not the problem but carrying everything home). We attached some plastic bins on the back and it is now very easy to go shopping. Those two things make life a lot easier.

We have been snorkeling one day at Sombrero Reef; it was great to have that experience again. It was rather wavy and I thought I would just go for a swim. Jacques suggested putting on our short wetsuits, it was a crime to get me into that thing, I was already wet and it took the two of us nearly ten minutes to hoist me in the suit. I looked like a wrong made sausage!! But it really is much nicer, the suit gives you some uplift in the water and with the snorkels and flippers I had a great time and did not want to come out of the water. We are of course spoiled by snorkeling in the BVI’s and Belize, but it still was very nice.

We also have made some arrangements for the end of our first year as snowbirds on the water, the storage in the boatyard here is arranged, the tickets for flying back are bought and we are thinking about what to leave here and what to take home. It would be nice if we could find somebody who could open the windows from time to time, but perhaps one of the girls working at the boatyard (and living on a boat there) is willing to do that, have to talk with them about it.

Today is a very windy day, so everybody stays on their boats or is probably on the internet in the harbor building, what we are also planning to do (will be a wet ride) and take a shower. The showers are not that great here, we are just a little bit too early, they have build a whole new building, but not all the connections are done, so we will at least look forward showering long everyday when we are home.

We keep ourselves busy with some improvements (we have a place to hang the motor of the dinghy, I am sewing my last curtain, because the fabric is all used up, bike for some shopping, read of course a book or two (there is a very large library in the harbor, you bring one and you take one), play my Nintendo or assist Jacques with his jobs. He ordered Amp meters (I think) to measure the output of the wind generator and need first to make a nice place where to put the things.

Ria

March 20

Because we needed water and electricity and all marinas in Key West were full, we ended up in Stock Island, not a very nice marina (although Key West prices), but that can happen. At least we got to borrow a bike and Jacques went to West Marine to buy a new water pump, the old one was so noisy, the whole boat resonated when using it. I got to borrow the same bike to do some shopping.

On Tuesday we left for Ramrod Key after we cleaned the boat, was very necessary, it was a short trip where we anchored at the SW side of the island and next day we made the hop to Bahia Honda. We had been there once before, it is a national park with a wonderful beach, I think it would be a good stop with Paul, Karyn and the kids. It was a wild night on the anchor, high winds and thunderstorms in the distance, but in the morning it was all over. We took the dinghy to shore and made walk over the island. There is an old railway bridge, now used for walking and fishing and when I looked down I saw two sea turtles swimming just below the water, great!

On Thursday we left for Boot Key, it was great sailing, two mono-hulls had left just ahead of us and it became very soon a race between the second boat and the Lady Hawk. After the second tack we went to second place and in the end Jacques was steering by hand to try to get as high on the wind as Lady Hawk could to maintain our lead. We would have won but we anchored outside Boot Key and they went inside, but it was a very fun sailing day. We stayed two days on the boat, just being lazy and Jacques started to read! It was the book about “Marley and me” and he enjoyed it very much (thanks to Helena who gave me the book when I visited them Last September).

Ria

March 14

After Joel’s arrival our stay at the mooring ended and we were on the road again, was a good feeling. The first day we had hardly any wind and went to Marco Island, anchored just south of the entrance. Joel and Jacques went for a swim and afterwards we went to search for a restaurant. We had a little difficulty to find a place for the dinghy, where we also could climb on the wall. With some help we found a spot where we could crawl over some rocks to get ashore. We had to wait about half an hour for dinner, so we decided to walk a little bit around and found a fantastic little Italian restaurant, was really a coincidence, we had there a wonderful dinner.

Next day we looked at the charts and decided to go to Little Shark River. We tried sailing but the wind again was slow and we made it to the river, just before it was completely dark.

The next morning we took a dinghy ride up the river, where we found two more boats anchored just around the corner, it was one of the nicest anchorages we had, saw lots of dolphins jumping and diving for their breakfast, really spectacular.

Next morning we left for Boot Key, we had great winds and made 8 knots, wonderful day of sailing, the only small negative thing was that we had picked up a crab buoy and Joel had to take an unplanned swim to check everything out.

We anchored outside the Harbor and Joel went for a dive on Thursday. In the evening we went with the dinghy to pick up Joel and to go to West Marine and have dinner in a very nice place Joel had heard about during the diving trip. On our walk we met another Fountain Pajot catamaran Antigua, we will try to keep contact, there are only about 55 Antiguas made.

On Friday we sailed outside the reef to Key West (to get some Atlantic feeling), the sail was very good but the waves were very high, not a comfortable ride, in the evening we anchored west of Fleming Island and went ashore to get the feel of Key West and watch a wonderful sunset.

Now Joel has left this morning and we tried to do some shopping, but the prices within walking distance were crazy, so we only took water and will find another place to shop tomorrow.

Ria

March 7

Tom took the good weather with him, we had very strong west winds and it was also colder this week. While we are waiting for Joel we did some trips with the bus to Summerlin Square, for a visit to (of course) West Marine, Walgreens did groceries etc.

I went for a hair cut; we did laundry, visited the library and had one more time dinner at Bonita Bill’s. Tomorrow Joel is coming, the weather does not look good for a direct trip to Key West, but we will see. An uneventful week.

Ria

March 1

We had a wonderful week with Tom, really nice weather, we installed handrails on the back of the boat, we needed someone smaller to get into the stern compartment and Tom was the one. We changed oil in the two engines and showed Tom Estero Island Beach. He felt very young, because there are a lot, I mean really a lot of snowbirds here in Florida. Nearly every third car is from one of the snow states, with Minnesota on top.

Monday we moved to the mooring field, we immediately got visits from two former Dutch Guys, and one told us about a small restaurant on the water “Bonita Bill’s”. It was a really nice place, which we would never have discovered on our own. Tuesday we had a nice sail to Big Carlos Pass, where we anchored of Coon Key. We were landed in dolphin heaven; they were everywhere, jumping as if they were in a show, so great!!!!!!!!!



Tom and Jacques went for a dinghy ride to show Tom how fast it could go, really fast, and discovered around the corner some stores, from where they took some beer home. The next morning we sailed to Sanibel Island and we tried out the spinnaker for the first time. Tom and I went to the beach to do some shelling, he found a very nice one that was still alive, so back on board we cooked it and opened up very nicely.



Back at the mooring we checked out all the side channels, because one of them should have a dingy place and a short walk to food store and library. Luckily there was already a little boat otherwise we would have missed it. You tie to a mangrove and try to step on the mangrove and not next to it, like I did when we came back and smashed our fresh strawberries.

The dinghy and I are still not very good buddy’s, I have blue spots everywhere from getting in and out of the thing, which is by the way called “Alex”, because he was a master in handling that boat. We also took a trip up the Caloosahatchee River which would lead us into downtown Fort Meyers, but the traffic on the water was so busy, that half way we stopped on the water to have lunch and went back to the mooring. As a treat we went to our favorite Bonita Bill’s instead. There was a karaoke event and we enjoyed some really good singers (and of course also some very bad ones).

The time has been flying and today we had to say goodbye to Tom, who had to take a taxi because his flight was very early.

Ria

Feb 19

We had a wonderful day with the Portmans, went to visit their place, a really beautiful campsite where I saw my first alligator in a pond on the site, and I had been on the look out for so many hours, but they are very hard to spot. We took advantage of being in a car and went for a big shopping spree to the Wall mart, RadioShack and of course the West Marine. Great day.

Next day we motored to Bokeelia Island and had again a nice anchorage. We took a dinghy ride into town, but as soon as we wanted to tie the boat, people came immediately to tell us we were on private property. We had to go to a wall and hoped it was okay. After lunch we dingied home and decided to leave Bokeelia to the Bokeelians. But we had a very nice dinghy ride into a mangrove little river.

We moved back to Useppa Island for two days. Went to a private harbor and did as if we belonged there, made a walk over the island, a wonderful place so lush with plants and birds and very expensive houses!

Tuesday we sailed to Sanibel Island and anchored in a bay north of S.I. We made some long dinghy trips because the only thing we could get in the neighborhood was bait!! So Jacques went to Pine Island which was a long and wet ride.

Thursday we went to Estero Island by way of the” miserable mile”, it is really called that way, because it is a very small channel and when you would go a little outside you would be stranded, we were a little nervous and were fixated on the buoys, but made it without a problem and stopped at Moss Marina, where we had reserved a place for 4 days. Nice Marina, nice people and it was the cheapest we had until now.

We took a bus ride to Publix, a big food store and filled up with everything we needed and walked around the beach area and tomorrow Tom is coming!!!!!

Ria

Feb 11

We had a nice sail to Charlotte Harbor, the first night we anchored east of Gasparilla Island, but it was very choppy during the night, so we left for Useppa Island, very nice anchorage off the ICW, saw two groundings (made us feel much better), visited Cabbage Key for lunch and took a walk over the island. We had peaceful time with some nice dinghy rides and are leaving tomorrow for Burnt Store Marina, where we will meet with the Portman’s. Until now there has not been a day without dolphins!!!

Ria

Feb 6

Today we had a wonderful sail to Venice, our Piet Wireman had given us two anchorages, so we thought that would be an easy landing, but the two places were full and they really did not like having us in between them. After searching up and down for half an hour we decided to go to Crows Nest Marina. After tying up, where Jacques really had to show he can handle the boat (very strange corner for catamarans), we had lunch and decided downtown Venice was really too far to walk, we had a peaceful afternoon with reading and playing my Nintendo!

Ria

Feb 5

Yesterday we had a nice breakfast, it is an easy walk to downtown and after that we took separate walks, Jacques was still very upset about the grounding, so we took some alone time, I of course made my walk back from the whole food store twice as long, because typically for me, I forgot again the name of the street where I had to turn, exercise is good for you!!!!

Today we met with Ira and Cheryl Berman, friends of Karin’s parents. They took us for a nice sightseeing of Longboat Key, had a nice lunch at the local Salty Dog, it is still very much below the normal temperature, so we put the heaters on when we came home, was a nice day.

Ria

Feb 3

Yesterday was a peaceful rainy day at anchor, but today was quite the opposite. We left this morning for Sarasota and because the wind would be 20 to 25 knots from the NW we took the ICW (Intra Coastal Waterway). With big waves from the back a sand bar decided to place itself underneath our port hull, and yes we were stranded!!!! After several tries we decided to call the towing company. 

After a few minutes we were free but 450 dollars had to be paid by us, the Boat US would pay another $150!!!!!!! We were a little shocked. Within the next half hour the starboard motor alarm went of, so we shut that one down, not our day, luckily we found a nice spot in Marina Jack in Sarasota and after calling Mark, our Pensacola motor guy, Jacques could easily fix the problem.

Now to bed and forgetting this day, Ria